Yesterday, September 9, 2016), we were up and breakfasted much
earlier, but we waited to meet Cristina at La Scaletta at a little after 10:15
AM. She looks well, and is about 6 months pregnant. Her parents have moved home
to Romania; her younger sister Ioana Andreea is living with her. She had just
been to the doctor, who has ordered rest for her and no more work until after
the baby is born and her maternity leave ends. (So, as the baby is due in
December, no work for her, should she decide to return, until next May.) She
has invited us to invite ourselves to her apartment for dinner, whenever we
would like. We visited with her until about noon. It was wonderful to see her
again; she is always a delight.
When we left, it was already a miserably hot day, 92 degrees. We decided to walk, very slowly, up to Forte Belvedere, to see how the
view compares to other vantage points we've tried. (Again, unless otherwise noted, picture credits to Shawn Hale; some few may be mine.)
The close-up view of Forte Belvedere from Room 21 at La Scaletta |
A view giving a slightly better sense of the distance from our room; that's the Kaffe Haus at right |
The views from the Forte are magnificent, though perhaps not quite
so spectacular as those from Giardino Boboli, Piazzelle Michelangelo, San
Miniato al Monte, or Bellosguardo. One does not necessarily see the city’s
stars from their absolute best sides at Belvedere, though after looking again at Shawn's pictures, I'm quibbling. Then, too, the viewing is done from
peastone walks, while one is monitored by park guards; admission is free, but
perhaps because of this, guards are everywhere, suspicious and a bit petty in
enforcing rules. It must be a very boring job for the most part, and like those
condemned to boring jobs everywhere, they take the piss out of all they
encounter as a recompense. UPDATE: For a while, in 2014 at least, Forte
Belvedere was closed to the public as some visitors had fallen to their deaths
from the battlements. So, the strict enforcement becomes a bit more
understandable, when seen in that light.
We briefly met with a nice young couple who seemed to be
Italian (or perhaps Portuguese) when he asked me to take their picture with her
pink phone, and then offered to take ours as well. Though we are not so
attractive as they were, the backdrop is pretty nice…
All through the Forte, and indeed in Piazza della Signoria
(seen) and Palazzo Vecchio (not yet seen) are Jan Fabre sculptures on temporary
display. Many are peculiar; he has a fascination with beetles, gilt finishes,horns, and an odd perspective. One sculpture is accompanied by a soundtrack of
a laughing man; it became annoying and then vaguely disturbing. Still, it’s fun
to see what will be new each time we visit.
After making our way back down San Giorgio, which also
offers the entrance to Giardino Bardini, which may be worth a visit, we stopped
for a drink at the little snack shop that is the outdoor portion of La Galleria Il Vino dei Guelfi. I tried a Campari Soda; bitter, but very refreshing. Shawn’s
Peroni was too sour for him, but cold. Overheard an American meeting four Chilean
men who had been ogling Italian women, and indeed, creepily, taking photos of
them.At least the Texan called them on the stalker behavior. (Which has since taken on a more sinister note, perhaps.)
After, both exhausted and overwhelmed with the heat, we
retired to our room at La Scaletta for a long rest. Shawn napped, Nancy read,
and we marveled in the glory that is air conditioning and wondered if we might
be over the magic of Florence. (Nope, just really hot and tired. And thinking that October or November are probably lovely times to visit, too, though the terrace may not be open then.)
In the evening, we had drinks on the terrace--prosecco for
Nancy and a Long Island (Iced Tea ?) for Shawn. After a bit, we made our way back to La Galleria Il Vino dei Guelfi for dinner, where we sat in a corner next to a British
couple. The food there is quite good. Delicious ravioli stuffed with ricotta
and spinach with butter and sage sauce for me; pennette arrabiata for Shawn.
And then we shared some branzino for secondo, our first fish in Italy, grilled whole, and filleted at the table by the owner, thoroughly good. I surprised myself by not wanting
dessert. We both had some trouble falling asleep, and we hope desperately that
the weather will grow cooler.
Saturday, September 10, we went first to Santo Spirito, to capture
some of the cool, calm and beauty we have loved. The church does not disappoint; the
market in the square is like a small farmers’ market and flea stalls, fun to wander and look.
No evidence of our
brass man today. We then walked down Via Maggio, looking in shop windows and
growing warm, though at least not going up any hills, until we reached Porta
Romana. We returned up Via dei Serragli, again examining shop windows and
noting again where da Ginone may be found.
From Bellosguardo, in 2014 |
We stopped back in Piazza Santa Spirito for a cool drink,
stopping at Caffe Ricchi. We were able to sit at a table outside to people
watch and enjoy my bicchiere of vino de casa bianco and Shawn’s birra media
(Nastro Azurro), though we did have to move from one end to the
other, as we had inadvertently sat in an area reserved for the ristorante. We
are considering a return for dinner.
We then walked across Ponte Vecchio, admiring jewelry, and
all the way to Piazza San Marco, half-heartedly looking for the pizza place at
which Dino now works. No joy, but much heat. We opted to return to Pizza O’Vesuvio,
which was wonderful again. On the way, we stopped to look at the map ,and we
accosted by a living statue who was kissing everyone, and then asking for
money, pleading twins. She was quite put out that Shawn only offered 5 Euro,
and wanted to argue. He dropped into Japanese to tell her no, which threw us
all, but was surprisingly effective.
Image from the Caffe Ricchi website |
Back across Ponte Vecchio and to La Scaletta for an
air-conditioned rest break. After a bit, we dressed up and headed up top for a
drink, intending to walk into Santo Spirito for dinner. But one Hugo and
Negroni turned eventually into more, and then dinner, and then some
complimentary wine and limoncello. The cocktails are excellent, the food good,
the view marvelous, and the staff giving it there all. Shawn was
briefly taken for French by a Frenchmen, after a convincing Monsieur. At the
next table, a group of four Germans was very good-natured, and I developed an admiration for one of the group, a woman with Betty
Page bangs and an absolutely unguarded and absurd laugh. It was pleasant to sit
in cooler night air and do nothing but admire the view and people watch.
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